PARIS (AP) – Schiaparelli kicked off the haute couture season on Monday with plenty of glamorous frivolity and exaggerated silhouettes ahead of a highly anticipated show by powerhouse Christian Dior.
Schiaparelli offers original takes on the classics, harkening back to the 1930s heyday of house founder Elsa Schiaparelli.
The mood at the first spring-summer couture show of the season was enlivened with gold accents and intricate embellishments in front of a host of VIPs inside the gilded atrium of the Petit Palais.
Designer Daniel Rosebery was in top form, taking classic styles and giving them an unexpected twist. A dark tuxedo was transformed into a minimalist, space-age jumpsuit with stark oversized shoulders.
A bronze bustier fancied as a giant oyster shell rose to obscure the model’s face. Its stunning pearl embellishments were rendered in organic, dense layers that reflect the ingenuity of the in-house atelier.
Numerous ornate baubles – almost resembling wet pearls – systematically dripped from a flowy bolero jacket that looked like it was made for a sea princess.
The collection was also reverent to the founder of the house whose unique brand of frivolity charmed audiences around the world. A giant lion head – complete with fangs and bushy mane – added a bite to the collection. It was funny, inventive, and smart—a nod to surrealism but also a powerful statement about the uses of fur.
iris van herpen goes digital
Against the grain of Paris Fashion Week turning its back on digital, Dutch wunderkind Iris van Herpen said she is proud to announce that instead of a traditional runway show, the brand “showcases a digital presentation that is more Allows for creative freedom and storytelling.” ,
Van Herpen offered a personal presentation of her spring collection as well as “Carte Blanche”, a stylized video in which she collaborated with French artist Julie Gautier to explore how feminine beauty was used as a form of control. can go.
A limp red outfit, with sinuses revealing inches of flesh, resembled a venomous sea creature, while interlocking circles evoked spiky coral. Billowing blue and silver shards of bountiful fabric adorn a flowing gown, reminiscent of the organic inspiration of the award-winning couturier, who designed for such artists as Björk.